The industry of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for all. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned when it comes to driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is preferable to rubber. And once 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I needed to scoop one up to see what all the hoopla was using this drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO Will Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Simply How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning before the motor or in the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A lot of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has considerably choosing it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in at the very economical price. Handling is great also after you get used to the kit setup, and it also accepts a very wide variety of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for those that love to tinker, which means that this car should grow along with you for your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is actually a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It offers cutouts on the bottom to the front and back diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. Most of these can be used for mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find quite a few left empty. They may be employed to control chassis flex, yet not together with the stock top deck; an optional one must be found. The layout is a lot like a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily available and replaceable with just a couple of turns of some screws.
? Apart from a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. A single A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are being used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to improve them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll even though the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.
? One important thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is definitely the serious quantity of steering throw they already have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so when near the edges in the chassis as you possibly can. This produces a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in even deepest of slides. Since drifters spend almost all of their time sideways, I wanted an effective servo to keep up with the continual countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Without needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I needed it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 utilizes a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, in which the front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high above the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow the use of a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.
? To provide the D4 a little bit of beauty, I prefered 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica of this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the way to paint it, but I do remember an approach I used some time back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a try of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black on the outside. After everything was dry, I shot the surface with a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I like the last result … and yes it was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!
Around The TRACK
For this particular test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I used to be heading there to perform a picture shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and acquire some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is very amazing. As I mentioned earlier, the throw is really a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. Even CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look a bit funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the proper direction. This can be, partly, because of the awesome handling in the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is just not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, you are able to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I discovered Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to do exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to affect the angle of the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding within a little shallow? Increase the throttle to find the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit and the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, and also the Novak system is designed for simply that. I have done really need to be just a little creative using the install of the system because of limited space about the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for some time, it will take a little becoming accustomed to knowing that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is the proper way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you have it, it’s beautiful. Going for a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at below two or three inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled unmanageable thing, as well as the D4 does it wonderfully. The kit setup is nice, but if you think as if you require more of something anything there’s a good amount of things to adjust. I just enjoyed the car using the kit setup and it also was only dependent on battery power pack or two before I had been swinging the back round the hairpins, across the carousel and back and forth through the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery around the diffuser, but that’s something I’m eager for.
There’s not much that can be done to damage a drift car they’re not really going all of that fast. I did so, however, come with an problem with the leading belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. In the initial run, it suddenly felt just like the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept along with it, seeking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon was required to RPM Team losi parts it straight into actually look it over. In the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.